Truccati come una cattiva: il Make up di Meryl Streep ne Il Diavolo veste Prada vs Crudelia De Mon

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Ci avete fatto caso? Mettete una parrucca bilocore in testa a Meryl Streep alias Miranda Priestley, la direttrice severa e temuta del giornale glam Runaway de Il Diavolo veste Prada: otterrete Glenn Close, malvagia e terribile Crudelia Demon ne La Carica dei 101.  Stesso portamento, stessa sicurezza di sè, stesso modo di strapazzare gli altri. Al loro arrivo tutti fremono e tremono, si nascondono, scappano. Miranda è semplicemente Crudelia dopo varie sedute psicoanalitiche per tenere a bada la propria rabbia; più controllata e fredda, spogliata della sua carica esplosiva e distruttiva, ma ugualmente letale.  Identiche anche le scene in cui le due cattivone scendono dall’automobile per recarsi in ufficio: due mirabili sequenze in cui, senza neppure vederle in viso, capiamo fin da subito che la pasta di cui sono fatte non è certo morbida.

Mi piacciono entrambe le versioni, ma Crudelia è la vera anima che brucia dentro la controllata e perfetta Miranda, che non si cura di applicare la benché minima regola di self control: è la cattiva più sexy, irriverente e cool che si sia mai vista. La cattiveria si esplicita anche nella scelta del make up: seguite queste piccole dritte, se vi piacerebbe uscire di casa pensando “di far l’effetto di un demonio”!

Partiamo dalla controllata, glaciale e misurata Miranda: tutta apparenza, in realtà lei vorrebbe far fuoco e fiamme come la sua gemmella separata alla nascita Crudelia!

La base è levigata, chiara e omogenea: scegliete un fondotinta satinato. Come blush optate per una sfumatura il più possibile discreta e soft, come il pesca o l’albicocca. Sulle labbra niente gloss: usate un lipstick matte rosa naturale o color carne. Il make up degli occhi ricalca la sfumatura fredda e grigio platino dei capelli: stendete a tutta palpebra un grigio ghiaccio matte, arrivando fino all’arcata sopracciliare. Create una riga di matita sulla rima superiore degli occhi, stando bene attente che sia il più possibile sottile e precisa. Potete anche usare un eyeliner, ma non tiratelo verso l’alto, fate in modo che segua il contorno dell’occhio. Sull’angolo esterno sfumate un grigio fumo di media intensità, sempre opaco: tiratelo fino alla metà della palpebra e sfumate con movimenti semicircolari, insistendo nella piega che si forma tra la parte mobile e l’osso all’altezza delle sopracciglia. La rima inferiore dell’occhio deve rimanere piuttosto nuda: potete al massimo applicare all’interno una matita nude per allargare lo sguardo e applicare con un pennello piatto l’ombretto grigio medio sulla rima inferiore. Mascara in abbondanza per finire.

Crudelia De Mon fa esplodere la rabbia controllata di Miranda: ombretto rame intenso, saturo e opaco su tutta la palpebra, steso in modo omogeneo e monocromatico, tratto di eyeliner spesso e geometrico tirato sia sulla parte superiore dell’occhio sia su quella inferiore. Qui la riga dev’essere dritta, non seguite la curva naturale dell’occhio, uscite fuori a formare quasi un angolo acuto con la parte esterna e superiore. Sfumate un ombretto color marrone scuro nell’angolo esterno della palpebra, ma in modo soft: l’effetto finale dovrà risultare praticamente monocromatico. Le sopracciglia sono ad arco, abbastanza spesse ed esageratemente delineate: optate per una soluzione discreta in merito, che renderà il tutto molto meno vistoso.

La base è bianca e matte: se avete la carnagione chiara potrete enfatizzarla stendendo una quantità un po’ più abbondante di polvere libera fissativa. Il mio consiglio è di mantenere l’incarnato naturale, senza forzare la tonalità: questo make up, se privato delle componenti iperboliche (base ultra opaca e bianca, sopracciglia arcuate e nere, matita labbra stesa oltre la linea naturale del contorno), è portabilissimo e davvero vincente per una serata speciale.

Per finire, labbra color fuoco: Russian Red di Mac è un lipstick opaco e a lunga durata, dai sottotoni ben bilanciati (ma con predominanza di blu); stendetelo dopo aver delineato il contorno labbra con una natita di mezzo tono più scuro. Blush discreto color pesca, appena accennato sulle guance.

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